‘York is the capital of the food universe!’ City restaurant gets stunning review
York’s reputation as a world-beating foodie destination continues to grow.
One of Britain’s leading food critics has reviewed a city restaurant and was so impressed he declared: “As far as I am concerned, York is the capital of the food universe.”
Giles Coren, restaurant reviewer from The Times, gave his verdict on Roots York in the Saturday paper. And to say it was glowing would be to undersell it.
The critic started with his verdict on his first dish from the Roots menu, the Lincolnshire Poacher Custard:
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It was so, so good. Angels sang. Birds fell stone-dead from trees. It was the best thing I had eaten all year.
And it got better from there.
Smart, modern and brilliant
“This was student booze food by way of Taiwan and Yorkshire foraging. Incredible.”
And so it went on. Chef at the family owned restaurant on Marygate, Tommy Banks, replied to Giles on Twitter to say: “I am so relieved that you enjoyed it. Your review made me laugh out loud.
“I am certainly stealing some of your lines!”
London is over for me. Haven’t reviewed in the old hole all year. Centre of my food universe is now York. Cheese custard for your bread? Forced rhubarb ceviche? Lamb fat Bao? They’ve got it all going on.
Hats off to @TommyBanks8 https://t.co/7FS2JUGHDS— Giles Coren (@gilescoren) January 26, 2019
We have met @gilescoren @RootsYork the other day. Just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to have a chat with us and thanks for the photo too. The description of the beetroot dish was excellent sir. ?? I hope you enjoyed your meal just as much as we did. ☺️ pic.twitter.com/F4lnDyL0kG
— HONEY (@SzandraCsakvari) January 13, 2019
Giles gave his scores for the meal (£40 before booze) as: cooking 9; service 10; location 10; total 9.67.
His full critique of Roots York, on Marygate, can be read on The Times website (paywall).
But here’s how he finished:
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This is a great restaurant.
It is bright and comfortable and pretty with enthusiastic young staff who giggle with delight when replying to the daftest questions because they are just so full of the joys of what they are doing.
The cooking is smart, modern, unpretentious and brilliant. There is nothing in London to touch this.
As far as I am concerned, York is the capital of the food universe.