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York restaurant wins stunningly good national review, sparks debate about city’s dining scene

Sat 19 Mar 2016 @ 8:37pm - Food & drink
YorkMix

Blow-torched scallop, satay, macerated cucumber and fine herbs – as featured on Le Cochon Aveugle Instagram

One of York’s less flashy eateries has won a brilliant review in the national press.

Le Cochon Aveugle on Walmgate was visited by Marina O’Loughlin of the Guardian and she was bowled over.

Under the headline Le Cochon Aveugle, York: ‘Everything makes us grin like eejits’ Marina says chef Josh Overington “has come up with something a bit special”.

The venison consommé has “astonishing clarity and meaty depth”. The slow-cooked venison is “insanely rich”. The pumpkin and roast onion soup is “of celestial smoothness”.

Marina adds that the only “bum note” was the “chocolate, sea salt and espelette pepper dessert that looks so unfortunately like a little poo” – and even that “tastes glorious”.

"a chocolate, sea salt and espelette pepper dessert that looks so unfortunately like a lit… https://t.co/dqA9J5FeeG pic.twitter.com/Y2KAz1oGMy

— Marina O'Loughlin (@MarinaOLoughlin) March 19, 2016

She is one impressed critic, concluding: “This tiny, open kitchen is churning out wildly impressive stuff.”

Naturally enough Josh and partner Victoria Roberts were well chuffed, saying they were planning to buy a few copies of the Guardian containing the review on Saturday (March 19).

And there’s more good news – the same team are planning to open a wine bar, as we revealed last week.

The great debate

‘Le Cochon Aveugle fits into York’s higgledy, cobbled streets with a quiet twinkle’. Photograph: Richard McDougall
‘Le Cochon Aveugle fits into York’s higgledy, cobbled streets with a quiet twinkle’. Photograph: Richard McDougall

The review was welcomed by foodie professionals and diners alike…

@LeCochonAveugle totally thrilled for you! Told you it was only a matter of time! Must book in. Cook with a smile tonight!

— Jennifer Middleton (@LemonZestful) March 19, 2016

Awesome @MarinaOLoughlin review guys!! @chefoverington @Vicks_Roberts well done! https://t.co/Xbx8Z8CIpH

— The Hare Restaurant (@harescawton) March 18, 2016

Bloody well done @LeCochonAveugle @chefoverington @Vicks_Roberts @rab_adams https://t.co/PmeecMilwD

— Tim Smith (@GasheadAu) March 18, 2016

I trust you have this smile on your face today @chefoverington ! #welldone #bloodyamazingfood pic.twitter.com/ML2KUu2zr0

— Karen Turner (@karenturneruk) March 19, 2016

But it also sparked a debate about the state of the York restaurant scene.

Jess Brammar, a senior journalist on the BBC’s Newsnight, Tweeted Marina to say her boyfriend’s parents lived in York “and we always bemoan lack of great restaurants”.

To which Marina replied, “Weird there are so few, isn’t it? In such a beautiful city.”

@jessbrammar weird there are so few, isn't it? In such a beautiful city. They're opening a wine bat too…

— Marina O'Loughlin (@MarinaOLoughlin) March 19, 2016

But lecturer and writer Sophie Coulombeau leapt to York’s defence. “As an ex-Yorkie, I must protest! Have you been to Le Langhe? or Ambiente?”

And on a previous trip to York, Marina did call the Star Inn The City “a splendid restaurant” and give it top marks.

Related YorkMix stories

Acclaimed York restaurant team to open a new wine bar in the city

London review of a York restaurant leaves a nasty taste in the mouth

York’s best breakfasts 2016 – Where to go for the perfect start to the day

Sat 19 Mar, 2016

2 Comments
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Kieran White
7 years ago

I keep meaning to visit this place. My personal favourite is Le langhe – a deli during the day but opens as a restaurant on Fri and Sat evenings. Astonishing food. Fresh pasta/truffles etc and a sommelier who can pair wine and cheeses brilliantly. Foodie alchemy

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Katherine curzon
7 years ago

Number one on our list is Rustique, always consistently good, and excellent value. Looking forward to trying the above though.

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